Warmer pad is recommended warm up products
Warmer pads come in many shapes and sizes directed at a specific application. They create heat for a given amount of time and then you dispose of them. They are inexpensive and to most are worth every penny.
Most warmer pads work via a chemical reaction with air. Just as with a fire, they have to have air to operate. The ingredients to the reaction are iron, water, cellulose, vermiculite, activated carbon and salt. When the iron in the pouch is exposed to oxygen, it oxidizes. When iron oxidizes, it produces iron oxide, commonly referred to as rust. The reaction creates heat. The salt in the pouch acts as a catalyst for the reaction. Think of a piece of bare metal that gets exposed to saltwater. Carbon, also in the pouch helps disperse the heat, and the vermiculite is used as an insulator for the purpose of retaining the heat. The cellulose is added as filler. With most disposable heat packs, a polypropylene bag that allows air to permeate the ingredients while holding in moisture surrounds all of the ingredients.
If you’ve ever used one of warmer pads before and had a bad experience, you may want to look at how you used it. The number one mistake when using these packs is not giving them time to complete the reaction. All too often, one will take the packs out of the packaging, give them a shake, and then toss them into boots or pockets. It is far better to shake them up a little and then leave them on your dash or table until you’re ready to go into the field.
If you’re using warmer pads and want to stop for a while, but don’t want to waste the pack, a technique you can try is cutting off that supply of oxygen. Let’s say you’re hunting and have a warmer that is good for twelve hours. You’ve hunted the morning and want to go out again in the evening, but don’t want to use another warmer. A zip locking-type bag, such as you’d use for a sandwich can be used to slow down the reaction. Simply toss in the heater and squeeze as much air out of the bag as possible. Without air, the reaction slows. Open the bag before you want to go back out and give the heater time to warm back up, and you should be good to go. If you have one, a vacuum sealer will do an excellent job of this, but isn’t the cheapest route due to bag material cost. While the heaters are not reusable, slowing down the reaction will extend the life of the heater, saving you money.
It is important to note that you also need to keep warmer pads dry. Just like tossing a bucket of water on a campfire, getting one of these heater packs wet will extinguish the reaction. Staying dry is such an important part of staying warm anyway. Your boots need to be waterproof if you’re using toe warmers in wet conditions. Your gloves need to be as well if you’re using them near water or in wet conditions such as duck hunting. You’ll also want to have breathable layers to keep sweat from extinguishing them as well. A hike into a deer stand might make you sweat a bit, which can bring down your temperature when you get to your blind and sit there all day.
Most warmer pads work via a chemical reaction with air. Just as with a fire, they have to have air to operate. The ingredients to the reaction are iron, water, cellulose, vermiculite, activated carbon and salt. When the iron in the pouch is exposed to oxygen, it oxidizes. When iron oxidizes, it produces iron oxide, commonly referred to as rust. The reaction creates heat. The salt in the pouch acts as a catalyst for the reaction. Think of a piece of bare metal that gets exposed to saltwater. Carbon, also in the pouch helps disperse the heat, and the vermiculite is used as an insulator for the purpose of retaining the heat. The cellulose is added as filler. With most disposable heat packs, a polypropylene bag that allows air to permeate the ingredients while holding in moisture surrounds all of the ingredients.
If you’ve ever used one of warmer pads before and had a bad experience, you may want to look at how you used it. The number one mistake when using these packs is not giving them time to complete the reaction. All too often, one will take the packs out of the packaging, give them a shake, and then toss them into boots or pockets. It is far better to shake them up a little and then leave them on your dash or table until you’re ready to go into the field.
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If you’re using warmer pads and want to stop for a while, but don’t want to waste the pack, a technique you can try is cutting off that supply of oxygen. Let’s say you’re hunting and have a warmer that is good for twelve hours. You’ve hunted the morning and want to go out again in the evening, but don’t want to use another warmer. A zip locking-type bag, such as you’d use for a sandwich can be used to slow down the reaction. Simply toss in the heater and squeeze as much air out of the bag as possible. Without air, the reaction slows. Open the bag before you want to go back out and give the heater time to warm back up, and you should be good to go. If you have one, a vacuum sealer will do an excellent job of this, but isn’t the cheapest route due to bag material cost. While the heaters are not reusable, slowing down the reaction will extend the life of the heater, saving you money.
It is important to note that you also need to keep warmer pads dry. Just like tossing a bucket of water on a campfire, getting one of these heater packs wet will extinguish the reaction. Staying dry is such an important part of staying warm anyway. Your boots need to be waterproof if you’re using toe warmers in wet conditions. Your gloves need to be as well if you’re using them near water or in wet conditions such as duck hunting. You’ll also want to have breathable layers to keep sweat from extinguishing them as well. A hike into a deer stand might make you sweat a bit, which can bring down your temperature when you get to your blind and sit there all day.
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